1. Dioscorea macrostachya
    Dioscorea macrostachya
  2. Ibervillea lendheimerii
    Ibervillea lendheimerii
  3. Dioscorea macrostachya
    Dioscorea macrostachya
  4. Euphorbia decaryi
    Euphorbia decaryi
  5. Ipomea platensis
    Ipomea platensis
  6. Monadenium montanum
    Monadenium montanum
Bonsai is an art form. Because bonsai grow in shallow containers, they require frequent watering and inspection, careful pruning as well as occasional fertilizing, root trimming and repotting, to keep them healthy and within bounds. Our Bonsai is indoor /or outdoors plants, they may be brought outdoors for short periods of time on special occasions or for display purposes. To keep top and bottom growth in healthy balance, a plant is periodically removed from its pot and three roots are trimmed back to encourage growth of new feeder roots, then repotted in fresh soil.
Tropical bonsai that we grow are develop from spring to fall, thus they must store up nourishment in the soil to prepare for the winter. Spring is when most bonsai begin their growth cycle. Monitor your watering to meet the requirements of your plants. Pay particular attention to deciduous bonsai who are at their peak growing stage and coupled with warmer weather may require additional moisture. For flowering bonsai, after the buds have blossomed, remove any remaining flowers and buds from the tree (berries may be left on). Take care to rotate the plants often so that each side receives equal amounts of sun to avoid one side becoming weaker and the other over developing. You should begin fertilizing in March-April for most plants but not newly transplanted or repotted plants. Adenium will be happy and flourishing if fertilized from the end of February on. Start cut back all caudiciforms to control new growth and keep the plant’s shape in mid summer. Pinching and prunning on a branch will force side branches to grow. Leave on buds that point in the direction you want a branch to grow, removing all others, particularly those on the underneath side of a branch. Watch for wiring that may cut into the trees.
Bonsai it is Japanese expression (bon_shallow tray & say_plant) that use worldwide today for an art form of growing plants. Originally it came from Chinese study of plants growing in the wild and transformed in to re-creating nature in to miniature landscape in the pot. A good bonsai will have an over all balance, achieved by selecting and training the structure of the plant and balancing the plant to the container. Usually there are 3 main factors to focus on:the form of the stem, the roots and the position in the container. The most important feature of the stem is its form, thickness at the base, maturity, an angle of the stem is a vital to a good view of the trunk line. Bark and stem texture and add character. Formation of exposed roots add to the impression of the plant appearance. This is one of my favorite feature of bonsai that gives an air of age , stability and pleasing visual effect to the whole picture. Always consider the size and proportion of the pot and the plant. The overall character, design and the position of the plant within the container. The pot must be in scale with the plant, enchanting the total balance of the plant size and the spread. Much the form, texture of the container to the style and form of the plant. Elegance needs dainty containers, rugged usually demand plain, heavy containers.

Ibervillea lendheimerii caudiciform

Ibervilleas are often grown in containers with the caudcx exposed.
Ibervillea lindheimeri was named in honor of Ferdinand Jacob Lindheimer, a prominent botanist in the nineteenth century.The caudex (swollen tuberous roots) is thick nearly globose or somewhat flattened up to a foot in diameter in older plants. Vines usually wiry, slightly angled, glabrous, dark green herbaceous, annual, that die to the ground in the winter, sprawling
on the ground or climbing onto various supports by means of unbranchcd tendrils.
Ibervillea lindheimerii is a slender perennial, trailing or climbing vine with tendrils, growing from a large caudex, it produces small yellow flowers in summer and showy, bright orange-to-red melons, up to an inch in diameter in autumn. The fruits are more noticeable
than the flowers and visible at eye level, or higher, in the trees. The dark green, lobed leaves are scattered along the branching stems, giving the vine a delicate appearance.
You don't have to worry about it getting out of hand, because it dies to the ground in the winter. 
Alternate, up to 3 inch wide, thick, glabrous above and pustulate-glandular below leaves are very variable on shape, broadly cuneate, or rhombic-ovate, mostly 3- to 5-lobed, often wider than long, angled to irregularly and often deeply lobed. Margins with widely spaced, whitish papillae. Flowers are yellow or greenish-yellow, unisexual (dioecious), male and female flowers growing on separate plants.
Male flowers mostly in racemose clusters. Fairly frequent on sandy soils, mostly in coastal oak woods in northern Mexico, coastal Texas (Cameron, Hidalgo, Willacy, and Starr counties).
Jatropha cathartica caudiciform​
Jatropha cathartica is a perennial herb that grows from an enlarged,
tubelike woody roots (caudex)large globose, pastel-white up to 6-8 inch thick and up to 10 inch tall. Usually it is above ground in cultivation, although is underground in nature and dormant in winter.
This member of Euphorbiacea was described in 1832 by J.L. Berlandier.
Stem branches up to 4-5 inch, but in culture seems to get up to 10 inch long.
Deciduous, palm-shaped leaves are up to 4 inch long and very deeply lobed five 
to seven times, will dry out at the end of the growing season. Showy flowers are
arrayed in loose clusters at the ends of long stalks bright pink to poppy-red.
Each inflorescence bears individual flowers of which 3-4 female and 10-12 male.
Originally from Coahuila, Tamaulipas and Nuevo Leon, Mexico.